Care
The Scarlet Badis is known from tributaries of the Brahmaputra River system in the Indian states of Assam and West Bengal (close to the border with Bhutan). Here, they favour shallow, clear streams with sandy/fine gravel substrates that are packed with dense vegetation, primarily Hygrophila, Limnophila, Ottelia, Rotala, and Vallisneria spp. These diminutive badids are an ideal choice for small, heavily planted aquaria. The tank must be mature and have myriad of hiding places amongst driftwood and thick vegetation, which should include floating species to help diffuse the light. Indian Almond Leaves (Terminalia catappa) are also very much appreciated as 'leaf litter', but these must be replaced on a regular basis as they gradually decompose. Filtration should be good but water movement gentle. Scarlet Badis should be maintained in pairs, or in a harem situation with one male and several females. Rival males can be rather aggressive towards one another, especially in smaller aquaria. However, if the tank is more spacious (and heavily planted as detailed above) then it may be possible to keep more than one male, as there should be ample visual barriers and room for each male to establish his own territory. Tankmates, if desired, should be small and peaceful e.g. Boraras spp., Danionella spp., Paedocypris progenetica, Pangio spp., Pseudomugil spp., pygmy Corydoras etc. Much attention must be paid to water quality since Scarlet Badis are somewhat delicate and do not tolerate elevated nitrates or swings in water chemistry. Acclimatise very carefully. May also be seen on sale as the Scarlet Gem.
Feeding
Small frozen foods such as baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii), cyclops, daphnia, and mini-bloodworm (sparingly). Some specimens may take crushed flake and micropellets, but this is not guaranteed.
Breeding
Substrate spawner which has been bred in the home aquarium. The male will set up a territory and begin a courtship display, showing off his beautiful colours to the females. If a female is receptive, she will scatter her eggs onto the substrate inside his territory, usually beneath a leaf or piece of wood. The male immediately fertilises the eggs and then drives away the female, caring for the eggs himself. The eggs should hatch within 2-3 days, but it may be up to a week before the fry have finished absorbing their yolk sacs and become free-swimming. The fry are tiny and initially require miniscule foodstuffs such as infusoria, until they are large enough to accept baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) or microworm. The adult fish will predate on the fry, although some should make it to adulthood in densely planted set-ups. However, if you wish to raise a larger number of young, it would be prudent to move the adults to another tank once the eggs have been deposited/fertilised.
