Care
The Emerald Dwarf 'Rasbora' is a diminutive but beautiful species of danio suitable for smaller well-planted aquaria. They do tend to be of quite a shy disposition and are best maintained in large groups of 10 or more fish. Keeping D. erythromicron in a single species only tank will further the chances of successful spawning without the need for a separate breeding tank, but they can be kept alongside other small peaceful species if desired. Originating from Lake Inle, Shan States, Myanmar, where the water is reportedly fairly hard and alkaline, D. erythromicron will do best in conditions which mimic the natural habitat as closely as possible. Due to the relatively high elevation of Lake Inle (approx 3000ft), and with the fish being used to fairly cool conditions, the temperature should not be allowed to exceed 25 °C. Provide plenty of cover in the form of rocks, caves, bogwood and plants, including floating species. These fish will feel safer if there is dense cover, and will be inclined to venture out more if they know they have a maze of hiding places to retreat into if need be. Efficient, yet gentle filtration is recommended, and small partial water changes should be carried out on a regular basis to keep organic pollutants to a minimum.
Other fish originating from Lake Inle include Sawbwa resplendens and Yunnanilus brevis and these make excellent tankmates. The generic placement of Danio erythromicron has undergone much debate over the past few years, with some experts initially believing the species should belong to the Microrasbora genus. May also be seen on sale as Burmese Zebra 'Rasbora'.
Feeding
Flake, micropellets, small frozen foods such as daphnia, baby brineshrimp, cyclops and mosquito larvae.
Breeding
A small shallow tank should be furnished with clumps of Java moss and spawning mops, and the conditioned fish acclimatised across. These fish are known as "continual spawners" and the females will lay several eggs each day. Check the plants/mops regularly for eggs and transfer them across to a hatching tank, away from the hungry parents. The easiest way to do this is to submerge a small container into the tank and place the egg-laden mop in it and remove. The mop can then be replaced by a new one and the egg-laden mop placed into the hatching tank (which must have matching water parameters). The eggs are approx 1mm in diameter and are translucent. After 5-7 days, it is wise to intervene in the spawning process so the females do not become exhausted. Carefully catch the fish out and acclimatise them back to the main aquarium, where they can rest and be bought back into condition with nutritious feedings. The hatching aquarium should be set up with a small airstone, and the eggs within the mops can be expected to hatch within 3 days or so, by which time they will appear more pigmented. Once free-swimming (usually after a week), the fry may be offered infusoria, moving on to larger foodstuffs e.g. finely powdered fry foods and nauplii in accordance with their growth. Snails (from a disease free source) can be added to the tank to help clear up any excess food, and any that is missed should be siphoned out during the daily partial water change regime which must be carried out carefully and slowly.
