Care
In the captivating world of aquatics, tropical fish do not come much more controversial than the Red Parrot Cichlid. This man-made hybrid is quite the 'Marmite fish' - people tend to either love 'em or hate 'em. The parentage of these bright orange fish has always been something of a closely guarded secret, but when they were first glimpsed during the 1980s, there was much speculation that they were a cross between the Severum (Heros severus) and the Red Devil (Amphilophus labiatus). Both of those species were, at the time, classified in Cichlasoma, so at that time a hybridisation between two fish of the same genus was, perhaps, not all that surprising. But both fish were later reclassified into separate genera, which made the breeding then somewhat unexpected and a little contentious. Since then, other parent species have been suggested, such as a cross between the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus) and the Redheaded Cichlid (Vieja synspila); yet others feel the Convict Cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) is involved somewhere along the lines. Whatever the parentage, and love them or hate them, it seems that these fish are here to stay in the fishkeeping hobby. Red Parrot Cichlids have a roundish shaped body that is somewhat unnatural and akin to some of the balloon mutations bred in various other fish in recent years. It is thought that these hybrid fish have been further line bred for this mutation (as a straightforward hybrid will not necessarily result in deformed spines every time), and this has also resulted in large eyes and a very small mouth that resembles a parrot's beak. The mouth is usually unable to fully close, giving the fish a slightly comical, smiling appearance. They are usually an all-over solid orange-red colour, but calico or paler variants are sometimes available. Sadly, these fish are often artificially coloured via dying or tattooing, and these specimens should be avoided at all costs so as not to perpetuate such cruel practices. Despite all the mystery and controversy surrounding the Red Parrot Cichlid, it still remains a popular aquarium fish, and is fairly straightforward to care for. As these fish can attain quite a modest size, a spacious aquarium is requisite, along with sturdy decor that can stand up to the rigours of these inquisitive diggers. Adults will require a tank measuring 6ft x 2ft x 2ft to really be able to thrive. Ideally driftwood and rocks should be placed on the base of the aquarium before adding substrate, so that the fish cannot undermine the structures. Plants will be uprooted and eaten, so it is best to stick to robust artificial vegetation in the Red Parrot aquarium, and ensure it is well secured. Provide plenty of hiding places and interesting areas for the fish to explore, as well as an open swimming space along the front of the aquarium. Filtration should be efficient, ideally an external canister, as these fish are messy eaters and can produce a fair amount of waste. Although Red Parrots are known to be extremely hardy and tolerant of less-than-ideal water conditions, this should not be an excuse to let things slip - they will always be at their best in clean, well filtered water with a moderate level of oxygenation. Red Parrot Cichlids can vary in temperament, but on the whole, most are fairly easy-going with each other and with different species. However, do observe very carefully as 'rogue' specimens have been known (and it is worth remembering here that one or more of the parent fish are considered aggressive, so it would seem that such traits sometimes come through). Tankmates should be peaceful and large enough not to be eaten (avoid Neon Tetra sized fish as these would be considered a snack). Ideal companions could include gouramis, large rainbowfish, barbs, larger deep-bodied tetras, Severums, Firemouths, and some of the Acara or Geophagus spp. Do bear in mind though, that Red Parrots are relatively slow moving fish and can easily be outcompeted for food by faster swimming tankmates - and sometimes their misshapen mouths do not help when competing for food either. Whatever your view on the Red Parrot Cichlid, they are intelligent, curious fish that, over time, can become tame and recognise their owner in the same endearing way that Oscars do. If they appeal to you and you can provide them with the space and conditions that they enjoy, you will be rewarded with happy, hand-tame, pet fish.
They are usually an all-over solid orange-red colour, but calico or paler variants are sometimes available. Natural colours should mirror those seen in the wild species that make up this hybrid - these fish are often artificially coloured via dying or even tattooing, and these specimens should be avoided at all costs so as not to perpetuate such cruel practices. May also be seen on sale as Blood Parrot Cichlids.
Feeding
Omnivorous. Offer a variety of foods including cichlid pellets (there are pellets available that are specifically formulated for Blood Parrot Cichlids), flake, vegetable matter, and frozen foods such as Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, mosquito larvae etc. Observe your fish carefully at feeding times to ensure that they are not being out-competed by faster fish. Foods rich in carotenoids will help the fish to maintain their bright orange-red colours.
Breeding
For a long time, it was believed that Red Parrot Cichlids were completely sterile. Yet as the years have passed, more and more aquarists have reported spawning behaviour /egg laying from their Red Parrots. For the most part, the eggs have not been viable, but recently there have been claims of successful spawnings with fry being raised to adulthood, although any hard proof of this seems a little hard to come by. There is speculation that the fish have somehow become less sterile as some of the early severe mutations (such as reduced gill covers) have been bred out. Mature females have also been known to cross breed with non-hybrid cichlids, such as Convicts. Regardless of why this is now allegedly occurring, the spawning behaviour of Red Parrot Cichlids is similar to that of most other cichlids: the pair will choose a preferred spawning site (usually a flat rock, but sometimes a cave or the aquarium glass) and clean this area prior to eggs being laid. The parent fish will become very aggressive and will fiercely guard the clutch, chasing off any intruders that get too close. In most cases the eggs will fungus over in a few days, and they will be abandoned (or eaten). Should they actually hatch, the fry will stick close to the parents, who will guard them until they are around 2.5cm in length.
