Care
The Marbled Hatchetfish is a surface-hugging species from tropical blackwater environments, where there is an abundance of driftwood, overhanging vegetation, and leaf litter. The home aquarium should be biologically mature and well filtered, but water movement should be kept as gentle as possible. Soft, acidic water is essential, and this can be helped along with the addition of peat to the aquarium filter. Dark decor and plenty of bogwood, caves, and planting - including floating species - will all help these fish to feel secure. It is imperative that the tank has tight fitting coverslides as these fish are highly skilled jumpers; and do ensure there are no escape holes where equipment feeds into the tank (block any gaps with filter sponge). Marbled Hatchetfish are a timid shoaling species, which congregate in large numbers in nature; for this reason, they must be kept in groups of 6 or more (10+ is better) in order to feel secure and display natural behaviour. Tankmates must be small and peaceful, as Marbled Hatchetfish are easily intimidated. Good companions could include small peaceable tetras, pencilfish, Corydoras catfish, dwarf cichlids such as Apistogramma or Mikrogeophagus, and some of the smaller Loricariidae (suckermouth catfish). Much attention must be paid to water quality since Marbled Hatchets can be sensitive to elevated nitrates and swings in water chemistry. At present, this species is not being bred on a commercial basis, and so the fish seen in the trade are almost always wild caught; for this reason it is especially important to quarantine new purchases before adding to the main aquarium.
Feeding
Flake, micropellets, small frozen foods e.g. bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, black mosquito larvae, daphnia, and baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii), plus fruitflies (Drosophila sp.).
Breeding
Marbled Hatchetfish have been bred in the home aquarium, but it can be rather challenging. This species would make an excellent project for the serious hobbyist who is able to set up a separate tank for the purposes of breeding. The majority of successful aquarists have had the best results after conditioning their fish on a diet of small fruitflies and black mosquito larvae. Soft, acidic water is requisite, ideally filtered through peat. Following a lengthy courtship ritual, eggs will be laid on floating plants or plants growing near the water's surface. The parents will predate on the eggs/fry, so they should be acclimatised back to the main aquarium once spawning has ceased. The eggs should hatch between 24-36 hours, and the fry will become free-swimming a few days later. Begin feeding with infusoria and paramecium, moving on to baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) as they grow. At roughly 3 weeks post hatch, the young will begin to take on the unmistakeable shape of the adults.
