Care
The Redfin Notho is found in transitory water-filled depressions in coastal Tanzania. These pools can be heavily vegetated and the water depth gradually decreases as the dry season progresses. This beautiful species is an annual killifish, which means it only lives up to a year at most - so the need to reproduce is of high importance. As such, the young fishes develop very quickly in order to fulfil this need (sexual maturity is reached in a matter of weeks), and the resultant eggs are able to survive periods of drought in the substrate, hatching when the rainy season returns and thus providing a new generation to continue the cycle.
The Redfin Notho will bring activity and colour to the aquarium, but is best maintained in a species-only breeding tank, with 2 or more females to every male. If keeping more than one male in the same aquarium, do ensure that the tank is spacious and heavily decorated in order for rival males to retreat to safety if necessary. If tankmates are desired, these killifish can be kept alongside other species such as pencilfish, Kuhli loaches, Corydoras catfish, Sparkling/Croaking Gouramis etc., which all enjoy the same softwater conditions. They are, however, not suitable for the general community. When kept in a specialised community, the aquarium should be heavily planted (include floating species) with the incorporation of plenty of bogwood. Adding botanicals such as Catappa leaves is suggested to help keep the water soft, acidic and tannin stained, all of which will help to show the fish in their best colours. Filtration should be efficient, but water movement gentle. Small partial water changes should be carried out on a regular and frequent basis. Tight fitting coverslides are a must as these fish are expert jumpers.
Feeding
Dried foods should be offered as a staple but are not always eagerly taken. Small live and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, cyclops, baby brineshrimp, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp etc. can be used to provide a varied diet. Females have a large calorific requirement, as they'll often be producing eggs on a daily basis!
Breeding
In the wild, the natural habitat becomes completely desiccated during the dry season, and the adult fish die, leaving fertilised eggs within the substrate. The eggs can withstand the harsh, dry conditions and remain in situ until the rainy season starts a few months later. Once wet, the eggs hatch and the resultant fry grow and reach sexual maturity very quickly. If you wish to breed this species, it is best to add a plastic container to the aquarium that is lined with coir or fibrous peat (to about 2cm thickness) and a couple of stones to weigh it down, which will provide a suitable spawning medium. This allows for much easier removal of the eggs from the water. After a few days of spawning, lift the container from the aquarium, slowly pouring out as much water as possible. The substrate should then be gently squeezed to drain as much water out as you can. The eggs are quite robust, but do proceed carefully. Place the spawning medium onto a paper towel to air dry for a few hours, then seal in a plastic bag. The eggs and moss should then be left in the bag at a steady room temperature for around 2-3 months: this replicates the dry season. Keep checking the eggs. When they are ready to hatch, the eyes of the fry will be visible through the eggs. Eggs that have not yet developed will be clear. Once the eyes are visible, you can be certain that the eggs are ready for the start of the simulated rainy season. Undo the bag and gently place the peat moss in a container, ensuring that the moss is spread out evenly. Add some mature aquarium water to a depth of 5cm with a small amount of aquarium salt added - this will help to prevent Velvet disease. Hatching will occur quickly, with the fry emerging in a matter of hours. Once free-swimming, they can be offered infusoria followed by newly hatched brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii).
