Care
The Ventralis Featherfin Cichlid is endemic to the southern part of Lake Tanganyika, where it is found amongst the rocky habitat in the shallow, littoral zone. Here, these gregarious fish gather in large shoals to feed on plankton drifting in the water column, and rarely venture below 5m in depth. The aquarium that houses this energetic species should be at least 5ft long, with a good amount of filtration, water movement and oxygenation. The best choice of substrate would be coral sand or aragonite, which will help to keep the water hard and alkaline. Rocks should be used to create small outcrops, caves, and steeply sloping walls, ensuring that there are ample visual barriers, but do also leave generous expanses of sand. Hardy plants could also be incorporated into the aquascape if desired. These cichlids are relatively peaceful and are best maintained in a species-only aquarium, but, in larger quarters can be kept as part of a Tanganyikan community with fish of similar size and peaceful temperament (they should not be kept with belligerent species, otherwise they may stop feeding and the males will lose colour). Ideally, there will be a small number of males, outnumbered greatly by females. Having more than one male will help to ensure the fish display their best colours as they vie for female attention. The males may show a degree of territorial aggression towards one another, but a very spacious tank and an abundance of visual barriers will assist in dispersing this behaviour. Ventralis Featherfin Cichlids are intolerant of poor water conditions, so ensure small partial water changes are carried out on a frequent basis. Numerous different regional colour variations are known, including Chaitika, Chimba, Chituta, Congo, Gombe, Halembe, Isanga, Kafungi, Kala Island, Kalumbamba, Kambwimba, Kanoni, Kapampa, Kasakalawe, Kigoma, Longola, Lyamembe, Masanza, Maswa, Moliro, Mpimbwe, Mtoto, Mzwema, Namansi, Nkondwe, Sibwesa, Sumbu, Tembe II, and Ulwile; these will hybridise so should not be mixed together in the same aquarium. May also be seen on sale as the Blue Threadfin Mouthbrooder.
Feeding
Omnivorous, but avoid feeding too many foods that are rich in protein. A good quality Spirulina-based green flake should be mixed with a standard quality flake food, and offered along with appropriately sized granular foods that have a green component. An occasional treat of Mysis shrimp, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, and cyclops can be given, but this should only be offered occasionally. Vegetable matter such as Nori, blanched spinach, and romaine lettuce can be fed on a regular basis.
Breeding
Maternal mouthbrooder. When ready to spawn, the male will excavate an impressive spawning site in the sand, resembling a large crater. It is not unknown for these nests to reach 2ft in diameter in the wild, with individual males building their craters only a couple of metres apart from one another. Once the nest has been constructed, the male will then display around it, shaking and showing off his intense colouration, attempting to attract a female. He may be quite insistent in his pursuit, which is why it is best to spawn this species in a harem situation in order to help diffuse his amorous intentions. If a female is receptive, she will deposit eggs in the spawning site and then immediately take them up into her mouth. The male stays very close by during this time, and as the female turns to pick up the eggs, the male drags his elongate ventral fins over the sand. The light coloured fin tips attract her attention, and she follows, attempting to snatch up what she perceives to be eggs and instead takes up sperm from the male, fertilising the eggs in her mouth. The female will carry the brood of eggs in her mouth for 3-4 weeks before releasing the free-swimming fry. She will not eat during this time. When the fry are released, they will be large enough to take baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) and crushed flake/green flake.
