Care
The Blue-spotted Goby Cichlid may be found throughout most of Lake Tanganyika (except for the southern end) where it lives exclusively in the surge zone. Here, the coastal waters are shallow and highly oxygenated, with strong currents and pummelling wave action. These fascinating bottom-dwelling cichlids are mostly solitary and spend much of their time hopping around amongst pebbles, feeding on algae and the microscopic organisms living within it. Blue-spotted Goby Cichlids have specialised dentition to assist them with scraping the algae from rocks, and a much reduced swimbladder that helps them negate buoyancy and keep their position on the substrate. The aquarium that houses these fish should be biologically mature, with a soft sand substrate and plenty of smooth pebbles and cobbles. Filtration should be efficient with areas of brisk water movement along with some quieter resting spots out of the current. There should be a decent level of oxygenation, and small frequent partial water changes will help keep nitrate to a minimum. Lighting can be fairly bright to encourage algae growth over the stones. Blue-spotted Goby Cichlids are territorial towards conspecifics, but should not be kept alongside aggressive species. Ideally, tankmates will be of similar size and occupy different areas of the aquarium to the goby cichlids, such as Cyprichromis or Paracyprichromis spp which tend to stay higher up in the water column. It is best to keep Blue-spotted Goby Cichlids singly or as a compatible pair, and it should be noted that once a pair forms, the bond is lifelong. The aquarium must be very spacious if more than one pair are to be kept together, with plenty of visual barriers amongst the decor. Not to be kept alongside other goby cichlids from the Eretmodus and Tanganicodus genera.
Feeding
Primarily herbivorous. Feed once a day on green (Spirulina) flakes and standard flakes (alternate with the green) and small sinking cichlid pellets for herbivores. Occasionally provide pieces of Nori, Romaine lettuce, blanched spinach etc. Frozen cyclops and daphnia are also safe and can be used as a treat. Ensure bright lighting is used to encourage natural algal growth. NEVER feed with protein-rich mosquito larvae, beef heart, Tubifex etc as this will lead to bloat, which can be fatal.
Breeding
Bi-parental mouthbrooder. This species has been bred in the home aquarium, but it is not a frequent occurrence. It would make a great breeding project for the serious hobbyist. When ready to spawn, the female selects a suitable flat rock as a spawning site and cleans it thoroughly. The pair will then display to one another whilst circling the spawning site. The female subsequently deposits one or two relatively large eggs, and then immediately turns to take them up into her mouth as the male simultaneously fertilises them. This is repeated until the female is spent of eggs, which may number 10-30 depending on her size/maturity. The eggs are carried in the mouth of the female for around 14 days, during which time she will not feed, and will be easily recognisable by her distended mouth. Once the eggs hatch, the female then transfers the fry to the mouth of the male one or two at a time. He will then continue incubating the fry for a further 7-14 days until they have absorbed their yolk sacs, before releasing them (usually at night) a few at a time and ensuring they each find hiding places. There is no need to immediately remove the parent fish or fry if they are in a species-only aquarium, as the parents will tolerate the fry for a reasonable period of time. In Tanganyikan community aquaria, however, it would be best to move the mouthbrooding male to a tank with no predators, before he is due to release the fry. Once they have been released, he may then be acclimatised back to the main aquarium. The free-swimming fry can be offered crushed Spirulina flake and baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii). The fry are slow-growing and will typically reach 2.5cm (1") in length after around 4 months.
