Care
Hoplo Catfish are excellent bottom-dwellers for larger tanks with medium-sized tankmates. Because they attain quite a size, they must not be kept with small fish of Neon Tetra proportions as these will be eaten overnight when the Hoplo is at its most active. This species is best maintained in groups of 5 or more. In the wild they are said to congregate in their thousands, such is their sociable nature. The fish must be carefully observed for any pairing and spawning (see below), as the male in question will become aggressive and fish may need to be moved to other quarters. Juveniles may be housed in a 4ft long aquarium, but adults require more space. There should be a soft sand substrate which will be kinder on the long sensory barbels and plenty of shady hiding places amongst bogwood, rocks and robust planting. Hoplo Catfish do like to dig, so be sure that structures are secure. Lighting should not be too bright, or else should be diffused with floating plant species. The use of a blue moon light tube is highly recommended for viewing this nocturnal species in the late evening time. Despite their supposed tolerance of less-than-ideal conditions in the wild, this is not an excuse to let things slip within the aquarium. A good maintenance and water change regime is a must, and we find that these fish thrive in high O2 conditions with plenty of current. Typical tankmates could include medium sized members of the barb (Puntius) family, large Rainbowfish species, large Devario species, medium sized or deep bodied Tetra species e.g. Congo Tetras, Black Widow Tetras etc, medium-large sized Rasbora species, Severum cichlids, and more. Bear in mind that Hoplo Catfish are very boisterous at feeding times, so be sure to feed at several locations within the tank simultaneously so that the other fish get their share. Nervous species may be reluctant to feed when the Hoplo Catfish launch themselves into a frenzied food searching mode, so observe carefully. Hoplo Catfish have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. They may do this numerous times per day. May also be seen on sale as the Port Hoplo Catfish.
As well as the dark brown wild form, an albino is available.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets/granules/tablets. Frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brineshrimp, Mysis shrimp, chopped krill etc. Some specimens may eat flake/crisps, but sinking foods should be offered primarily.
Breeding
Hoplo Catfish form a strong pair bond. At the first signs of spawning, when the fish seem to have paired off and the male is displaying a purpley-blue belly, it would be best to move any other Hoplos to another aquarium, leaving just the male-female pair. (The female may well also need to be moved away from the male later on). A calm area should be created within the aquarium, which does not show turbulence at the surface. This is the likely site where the male will choose to construct his bubble nest. Usually triggered by a cool partial water change, he will build this nest at the waters surface, anchoring it to floating plants (a small piece of polystyrene has been known to act as a good substitute). In order to stabilise the nest further, the male cuts pieces of plant from elsewhere in the tank and adds them to the nest. He is able to do this with the use of his sharp pectoral fins, and this process may take several days. When the nest is ready, the male will pursue the female and if she accepts him they will swim up to the bubble nest and adopt the T-position (also seen with Corydoras spawnings). The female deposits her adhesive eggs (a small number at a time) into the nest which the male fertilises. This action is repeated until the female is depleted of eggs. The number of eggs will depend on the size of the female but expect upwards of 150. A good sized female will produce 500+. The male then begins furiously guarding the nest against any predators (which will include nets and hands!), and it is at this point the female must be removed for her own safety; male Hoplos have been known to kill their mate in their over-zealous defending of the eggs. The male will make any necessary repairs to the nest as and when required, retrieving any eggs that fall, and these can be expected to hatch after 72-96 hours. Once the eggs begin to hatch, it is wise to catch the male and relocate him to another tank as he may start to predate on the fry. The fry will initially take nutrition from their yolk sacs, but should be offered tiny foods, such as microworms, after 24 hours or so.
