Care
The Orchid Dottyback is endemic to the Red Sea, where it is typically found taking refuge amongst small holes in vertical rock faces or beneath overhangs, to depths of 60m (197ft). This hardy fish is perhaps the most sociable and peaceable of the dottyback species, but it can still be somewhat quarrelsome at times. Despite initial shyness and small size, this dazzling purple species is actually best suited to a moderately aggressive community of medium-sized fish that can look after themselves. Definitely avoid housing with any small, timid fish or hesitant feeders. The aquarium must be mature and should include ample rockwork, arranged so that there is an abundance of small caves, crevices, channels, and overhangs that provide safe, shady retreats for this species. If the aquarium is very spacious, and has plenty of visual barriers amongst the decor, more than one specimen may be kept together if of the same size and introduced simultaneously - however do observe very carefully and separate if necessary. Do not keep with other members of the same genus or close relatives. Will prey on small ornamental shrimps, fanworms, and bristleworms, and will pester small/docile fish (e.g. Anthias, fairy wrasses, firefish, small gobies etc). Species that are not easily bullied e.g. larger angelfish, tangs, hawkfish, and large damselfish, for example, tend to make the best tankmates. The Orchid Dottyback should be the last fish added to the aquarium, otherwise it will show aggression towards any newcomers introduced into what it perceives as its established domain. It will be particularly defensive of its preferred hidey-hole, and even more so when breeding. It is essential that the tank has tight fitting coverslides, as these fish are expert jumpers. May be confused with the Strawberry Fish (Pseudochromis porphyreus), but can be distinguished by the black stripe running across its head and over its eyes (vs. no black stripe in P. porphyreus).
Feeding
Offer a variety of small meaty foods such as Mysis shrimp, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, plankton, finely shaved krill/mussel/cockle/clam etc. Some specimens will take prepared foods such as marine flake and pellets. Feed small amounts several times per day. A varied, nutritious diet will help to maintain the wonderful colours of these fish.
Breeding
This species has been bred in captivity, and tank-raised specimens are frequently available in the trade. The male entices the female into spawning by performing an elaborate mating dance outside his chosen cave or piece of PVC pipe. If the female accepts the male, she will enter the cave/pipe and deposit several hundred eggs, which are simultaneously fertilised by the male. The male then drives the female away and takes on paternal care of the adhesive eggs, gently fanning them with his pectoral fins and even picking them up and moving them to a new location if he feels they are in danger. The eggs should hatch within 3-5 days (temperature dependent) and they remain in a larval state for around 25-30 days. As soon as the eggs hatch, parental care ceases, so you will need to separate the young from the parents and any other fish in the tank just prior to this event. Raising the larvae to adult fish is possible, but very challenging - you will need a ready supply of miniscule foodstuffs such as rotifers available at all times and water quality/tank hygiene must be continually monitored. The female fish can come off a bit the worse for wear following a spawning event (ripped fins, missing scales etc) so be sure to keep a close eye on water quality to ensure she recovers quickly.
