Care
The Pacific Blue-eye has a wide area of distribution along the east coast of Australia, from the Cape York Peninsula in northern Queensland, southwards to Ulladulla in New South Wales, along with populations on some of the offshore islands in the Torres Strait. It is found in a wide variety of habitats from clear forest streams and swamps to brackish mangrove estuaries. As might be expected from such a large geographical range, there are thought to be up to 15 variants of this species, showing marked differences in colour, pattern, and size depending on original collection location. These diminutive fish make wonderful additions to the small-medium planted aquarium housing other petite, peaceful species, or even showcased as a single species shoal in a high end aquascape. The tank should be mature and have areas of dense vegetation, including some floating species, along with several tangles of driftwood (the spindly Sumatra wood is ideal) to help diffuse the light. Dark background and substrate choices will help to bring out the colours of these active fish. Filtration should be efficient, and the water well-oxygenated, but the flow should not be too strong. Always maintain Pacific Blue-eyes in groups of 10 or more specimens, ideally with one or two females to every male. Not only will this make the fish less nervous, but it will also result in a more effective, natural-looking display. Male fish will put on quite a show as they compete with one another for female attention, but no real damage should ensue during such sparring sessions. Tankmates should be small and peaceable and enjoy the same water conditions, e.g. some of the smaller goby or catfish species, other small rainbowfish, and many diminutive cyprinids; small bottom-dwelling gobies or catfish working particularly well as Blue-eyes tend to occupy the middle to upper levels of the aquarium. Avoid keeping alongside slow-moving fish that have long trailing fins, such as gouramis, as they may be nipped at. Much care must be taken when acclimatising this species to the home aquarium, as they can be very sensitive to changes in water chemistry and temperature. Similar care should be taken when carrying out frequent partial water changes.
Feeding
Flake, micropellets, and small frozen foods such as daphnia, baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii), cyclops etc.
Breeding
A separate breeding aquarium should be set up, with plenty of Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)/floating plants with long, trailing roots/spawning mops and the temperature set towards the upper end of the preferred range. Morning sunshine often triggers this species into spawning, and after an elaborate courtship dance from the male, the female/s will scatter eggs over the plants/mops. These fish are known as 'continuous spawners' which means that the eggs are deposited over a period of some days/weeks. The eggs, which are relatively large, should be removed to another tank (with matching water conditions) after each spawning, as otherwise the hungry parents will consume them. Each batch of eggs becomes progressively smaller. The eggs usually hatch within 14-21 days, the timescale being very dependent on water temperature. The fry should be offered infusoria and powdered fry foods, moving on to baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) as they grow. Frequent partial water changes should be carried out with the utmost of care, as the fry are extremely sensitive to changes in their environment.
