Care
The Pignose Puffer exhibits a relatively low degree of aggression towards its own kind, and can usually be kept in groups or with other puffer fish species of a similar size and disposition (do observe them carefully). Smaller fishes should not be housed with Pignose Puffers as they will be seen as a quick meal by these ambush predators. It is best to keep 5 or more Pignose Puffers, rather than just 2 or 3, as this will help to spread any the load of any occasional territorial argument amongst the group. Due to the fairly large adult size of the Pignose Puffer, they should be maintained in spacious aquaria with plenty of shady hiding spots/visual barriers amongst rocky caves (allow more than one cave per fish). Lighting should not be too bright, and the substrate should be smooth because of the puffers will spend the majority of their time laying on or in it in an almost motionless fashion. However, they soon 'come to life' when it is feeding time and will venture out in a very eager fashion when the keeper approaches the tank with the food container. When keeping multiple specimens, it is best to distribute the food as evenly around the tank as possible, so that there is less chance of the puffers accidentally biting each other when lunging for a morsel of food. Once feeding time is over, the puffers tend to retreat once more to a resting position in their chosen territory. These fish can consume a lot of food in one sitting, so ensure that powerful filtration and aeration is used to cope with the metabolic rate. Occasional territorial arguments will inevitably occur, and when this happens, the two puffers concerned will horizontally flatten their bodies and lower their heads, cautiously swimming around each other in a circle in an attempt to see the other one off. Biting may occur, but this is a rare occurrence and is not usually too serious, particularly if tip-top water quality is maintained. If a group is to be kept, it is best to introduce them simultaneously to avoid any newcomers being set upon. As with other puffer species, this fish can inflate when frightened or cornered. It should never be provoked into doing so, and never above water where it can take on air, which can prove fatal. If moving a Pignose Puffer to larger quarters, the fish should be herded into a solid container under the water so as to remove the necessity of netting and lifting it clear of the water. Please remember that pufferfish can vary in temperament, and there may be exceptions to the expected behaviour of the species. It is always a good idea to have some sort of tank divider - or even a spare aquarium - handy, should circumstances necessitate their use. Intolerant of poor water quality - as already mentioned above, make use of a decent filtration system and perform plenty of regular partial water changes. May also be seen on sale as the Mekong Puffer.
Feeding
Meaty frozen food such as cockles, cockle-in-shell, mussels, krill, prawns, crayfish tails, crab legs etc. Will eat snails. Hard-shelled foods should be offered on a regular basis in order to keep the beak worn down.
Breeding
These fish have been spawned in captivity. It is best to purchase a group of 5 or more fish and observe for any natural pairing. Following an elaborate courtship ritual, which can last some days and includes inflation by both male and female, the pair will usually choose a cave site in which to spawn and a pit will be created. It is noteworthy that some aquarists have observed their Pignose Puffers cleaning flat pieces of slate as spawning sites too, those of which have usually been located in shadier areas of the aquarium. Not a huge amount is known about the actual egg laying & fertilisation, but it is thought that the female deposits the adhesive eggs on the chosen substrate, which the male then passes over and fertilises. After this occurs, all brood care is carried out by the male and he will defend vigorously against any would-be predators, including the female. The eggs (clear and 2mm in size) are said to hatch within 6-7 days, and after a further 48 hours, the fry will be free-swimming. The fry, much like the parents, will not actively seek out food, but will instead wait for it to flow past them, when they will snatch it up. They can be started on infusoria and newly-hatched brineshrimp, and then moved on to larger foodstuffs such as cyclops and daphnia as they grow. Unfortunately, there can be a large number of casualties as there tends to be much aggression between the youngsters, particularly once the dentition becomes more developed.
