Care
The Humpback Puffer is an ambush predator which is best maintained in a species-only aquarium. In very spacious aquaria, they can sometimes be kept with some large armoured catfish species or other puffer species (similar in temperament and size), but do observe very carefully. They are not suitable for keeping with small fish as these will quickly become a snack. It is best to either keep a single Humpback Puffer specimen or else a group of 5 or more, rather than just 2 or 3. This will help to spread any aggression amongst the group. Due to the large adult size and territorial nature of the Humpback Puffer, they should be maintained in spacious aquaria with plenty of shady hiding spots/visual barriers amongst rocky caves (allow more than one cave per fish). Lighting should not be too bright, and the substrate should be smooth because of the puffers will spend the majority of their time laying on it almost motionless. However, they soon learn when it is time for feeding and will venture out in a very eager fashion when the keeper approaches the tank. When keeping multiple specimens, it is best to distribute the food as evenly around the tank as possible, so that there is less chance of the puffers accidentally biting each other when lunging for a morsel of food. Once feeding time is over, the puffers tend to retreat once more to a resting position in their chosen territory. Occasional territorial arguments will inevitably occur, and when this happens, the two puffers concerned will horizontally flatten their bodies and lower their heads, swimming around each other in a circle in an attempt to see the other one off. Biting may occur, but this is a rare occurrence and is not usually too serious, particularly if tip-top water quality is maintained. If a group is to be kept, it is best to introduce them simultaneously to avoid any newcomers being set upon. As with other puffer species, this fish can inflate when frightened or cornered. It should never be provoked into doing so, and never above water where it can take on air, which can prove fatal. If moving a Humpback Puffer to larger quarters, the fish should be herded into a solid container under the water so as to remove the necessity of netting and lifting it clear of the water. Please remember that pufferfish can vary in temperament, and there may be exceptions to the expected behaviour of the species. It is always a good idea to have some sort of tank divider - or even a spare aquarium - handy, should circumstances necessitate their use. Intolerant of poor water quality - make use of a decent filtration system and perform plenty of regular partial water changes. May also be seen on sale as the Palembang Puffer.
Feeding
Meaty frozen food such as cockles, cockle-in-shell, mussels, krill, prawns, crayfish tails, crab legs etc. Will eat snails. Hard-shelled foods should be offered on a regular basis in order to keep the beak worn down.
Breeding
These fish have been spawned in captivity, although rearing the fry can be problematic. It is best to purchase a group of 5 or more fish and observe for any natural pairing. Following an elaborate courtship ritual, which includes inflation by both male and female, the pair will choose a cave site in which to spawn and a pit will be created. Little is known about the actual egg laying & fertilisation, but all brood care is carried out by the male. The eggs are said to hatch within 6-7 days, and after a further 48 hours, the fry will be free-swimming. The fry, much like the parents, will not actively seek out food, but will instead wait for it to flow past them, when they will snatch it up. They can be started on newly-hatched brineshrimp and moved on to larger foodstuffs such as cyclops and daphnia as they grow. Unfortunately, there can be a large number of casualties as there tends to be much aggression between the youngsters.
