Care
The Spotted Tilapia is known from a variety of habitats including canals, coastal lagoons, lower river courses, and warm springs. Here the water may be sluggish or flowing, shallow or deep, the substrates muddy or sandy, and there is often an abundance of marginal vegetation. This is a large-growing and territorially aggressive species. Juvenile fish can be housed together, but adults are much more belligerent and do not tend to mix well with others. To house these fish to adulthood, a spacious aquarium is required. A group of youngsters may be grown on together, but they will soon require separating into single specimens or compatible pairs (aggression usually becomes apparent once the fish attain 2" or so) and rehoming into larger quarters before serious problems arise. Putting a male fish and a female fish together at a later date does not mean they will be compatible, in fact it is quite unlikely to work - it is best to let the fish grow up together and pair up naturally. Studies on this species have shown that parental fish prefer to avoid each other and are more strongly bonded to their offspring. These fish like to dig and rearrange the décor, so ensure that any large structures are stable, and definitely make use of a heater guard. These fish are big eaters, so an efficient filtration system along with regular water changes is very important in order to keep them healthy. Anything green and leafy will be regarded as a tasty snack, so if plants are desired they will have to be plastic and well weighted down or secured to the décor. With regards to tankmates, it's often better to house cichlids such as these alongside large barbs, characins etc. that will not challenge them for territory. It may be possible to house Spotted Tilapia with other cichlids of similar size and temperament in a very large tank with plenty of visual barriers amongst the décor. If you are fortunate enough to obtain a compatible pair, it is best to have a sturdy tank-divider to hand, in case they start to behave too pugnaciously towards one another. Materials such as egg crate (popular with coral propagators) can be used and holes provided to allow the smaller female easy access to her own area where the male can't follow. Young fish display stripes on the flanks, which change into spots as the fish matures.
Feeding
Omnivorous but with a preference for green foods. Small specimens will enjoy all manner of foods including flake/green flake, cichlid pellets/granules, and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae Spirulina-enriched brineshrimp, and Mysis shrimp; adults will require larger foodstuffs such as cichlid sticks, Krill/prawns etc. But do ensure they receive ample vegetable matter such as blanched spinach, kale, lettuce, cucumber etc, and do not feed high protein foods too often.
Breeding
Biparental substrate spawner. When ready to breed, an elaborate courtship ritual (including lip-locking) is followed by the fish choosing a suitable spawning site such as a smooth rocky surface, bogwood, cave, flower pot, PVC tube etc. The surface will be cleaned before the female deposits up to 3000 eggs, which the male fertilises. After spawning has finished, the female will tend to the eggs whilst the male patrols the perimeter. However, in some cases, the adults become very nasty with one another, and you may need to move the male to another aquarium. After a couple of days, the female may move the eggs to a pre-dug pit in the substrate. The eggs should hatch after approximately 3-4 days (temperature dependent) and are free-swimming a few days later. Parental care lasts until the fry are approximately 1.5-2 months old or about 2.5-3cm long. Given the huge numbers of fry produced and the limited options for homes, it's often wise to avoid rearing broods of this species.
