Care
The Long-nosed Angelfish is known from the Amazon River basin, along the Solimaes between Manacapuru and Santarém, and also from the Rupununi River in the Essequibo River drainage in Guyana. Here it inhabits the slower reaches of rivers, living amongst submerged roots and marginal vegetation. P. leopoldi differs from other members of the same genus by the absence of a pre-dorsal notch, and by the presence of a black blotch at the dorsal insertion on the 4th vertical bar. This angelfish always swims with a characteristic 'head-up' position, which is reminiscent of the flag cichlids of the genus Mesonauta. It is a majestic species which, although smaller than its congeners, still requires a taller than average aquarium due to its adult height and long trailing finnage. Soft, acidic water with negligible hardness is requisite. Adults should never be housed with small fish (e.g. Neon Tetras) as they will quickly become a snack. The substrate should be soft and smooth, so as to protect the delicate finnage when the fish are swimming in the lower reaches of the tank, and a good cover of aquatic plants along with some tall pieces of driftwood should be provided in order for the fish to feel safe. Filtration should be efficient, but water movement fairly gentle, and small frequent water changes will help to keep pollutants to a minimum (these fish are very sensitive to elevated nitrates). In larger aquaria, Long-nosed Angelfish can be maintained in good size groups; this will not only make them feel much more secure, but it will result in a much more effective, natural looking shoal. Tankmates should be of similar size, and be of a peaceful disposition. Good companions could include some of the deeper-bodied characins, other medium-sized peaceable South American cichlids, Corydoras catfish etc. Be aware that if a pair of Long-nosed Angelfish form, they will become very territorial when breeding, so observe carefully; however, this should not cause issues in voluminous aquaria. Not recommended for beginners.
Feeding
Frozen foods such as white mosquito larvae, bloodworm, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, Mysis, daphnia etc. As the majority of fish are wild caught, they may require live foods to initiate a feeding response, gradually weaning on to frozen fare and some dried foods such as small sized cichlid pellets.
Breeding
This species has been bred in the home aquarium, but it is a rare occurrence and can be rather difficult. Very soft, acidic water is required, and the tank should be furnished with a selection of potential spawning sites, such as broad-leaved aquatic plants and flat pieces of slate stood upright against the back glass of the aquarium. When ready to spawn, the breeding tubes (genital papillae) will begin to show on both fish, between the ventral and anal fins. Do not disturb the aquarium once egg-laying/fertilisation commences. Typical brood size is around 70. The parents should be left to tend the eggs - they will be seen carefully fanning them with their pectoral fins. After 2-3 days, the eggs should begin to hatch into "wrigglers" and after a further 4 or 5 days, they should become free-swimming and they can be offered baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii). However, it is not always this straightforward. Once a pair has formed and they begin spawning, it is not unusual for them to eat their eggs. This can be frustrating and if it keeps occurring, it may be necessary to separate the parents from their spawn if there is to be any chance of success.
