Care
The Lemon Cichlid is known from the rocky shorelines of the southern half of Lake Tanganyika, where it may be observed feeding on invertebrates found in the biocover or in deep recesses of the substrate, each fish covering a surprisingly large terrain. These fish are moderately aggressive towards their own kind and should only be kept with other Tanganyikan cichlids of a similar disposition (and which have the same dietary needs). They are not suitable for housing alongside small shell-dwellers. The Tanganyikan community aquarium that houses this species should be at least 4ft long, with a good amount of filtration, water movement and oxygenation. The best choice of substrate would be coral sand or aragonite, which will help to keep the water hard and alkaline. Rocks should be used to create small outcrops and plenty of caves. Lemon Cichlids are intolerant of poor water conditions, so ensure frequent small partial water changes are carried out. Juveniles may be kept in groups of 8 or more, but adults tend to be much more solitary. If a breeding pair does form within a group, they can become incredibly territorial, and it is often best to move them to a tank of their own at this stage. Interestingly, there are three currently known wild colour morphs of this species: the bright yellow-orange (as pictured here, and which is the most abundant form in the lake), a brown-black, and a silvery-beige. The brown-black variant actually possesses the same yellow pigment as the bright yellow-orange morph, but this is obscured by the strength of the brown-black pigment; indeed, the yellow-orange individuals are simply lacking the melanistic brown-black pigment. There is a further geographical variant sometimes seen at Bulu Point which is yellow-orange all over with a black 'moustache' marking over the upper lip. The bright yellow-orange variety, is understandably the most popular and the most commonly traded. This colour form is best kept over a light coloured substrate in order to retain the vivid colouration; otherwise when kept in an aquarium with dark substrate, they may take on a slightly "dirty" appearance. May be confused with N. longior, although that species is not exported anywhere near as regularly, and tends to have a slightly more elongate body. N. leleupi may also be seen on sale as the Leleupi Cichlid or Gold Cichlid.
Feeding
Flake, green flake, slow-sinking pellets/granules, frozen foods such as vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, mosquito larvae etc. Foods rich in carotenoids will help the fish attain their brightest colours.
Breeding
Neolamprologus leleupi is a cave spawning species. The bond these fish form when breeding is very weak and typically only lasts for the duration of the spawning event and subsequent brood care. In between spawns, the male may become intolerant of the female, which is why a good sized tank with a multitude of hiding places/visual barriers is essential. In the wild, spawning occurs in the females' preferred cave. The same process frequently occurs in the home aquarium, with the ripe female leading the chosen male from his territory to her cave. Other times, the pair may be seen excavating a cave from scratch. The female then deposits her eggs (averaging around 100) on the sides of the cave, the male immediately swimming over them and fertilising with his sperm. It is not always obvious when these fish have spawned, as oftentimes they are very secretive and the cave may be hidden from view. Once spawning has finished, the female will tend to the eggs, with the male fish guarding the perimeter of the cave. The eggs should hatch within 3-4 days (temperature dependent), with the fry becoming free swimming some 7-10 days later. The youngsters remain in the care of the parent fish, with the male and female taking turns in watching over their brood, and vigorously defending them from any would-be predators. The young can be started off on a diet of freshly hatched brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) and finely powdered "˜first foods"™. Some aquarists like to move the parents to another tank when the fry begin to roam away from the cave, yet others find their fish are excellent parents and leave them be until the fry have grown to around 2.5cm (1") TL. This can actually have the beneficial effect of maintaining harmony between the parent fish for a longer period of time, and multiple spawns will peacefully coexist within the same aquarium, forming a nuclear family. However, once the fry exceed 2.5cm, it is best to move the parents to another aquarium, to prevent them from turning on the young. It is crucial that high water quality is maintained at all times through filtration and very regular partial water changes, so that nitrogenous wastes are not allowed to accumulate.
