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Synonyms | Cyphotilapia frontosus, Paratilapia frontosa, Pelmatochromis frontosus |
Distribution | Lake Tanganyika, Africa. |
Maximum Size | 33cm (13") |
Temperature | 23-25°C |
Water Parameters | Hard, alkaline conditions essential. pH: 8.0-9.0, dH: 15-25 degrees. |
Compatibility | Tanganyikan cichlid community |
Lighting | Dim (brighter lighting should be diffused with decor). |
Sexual Dimorphism | In mature fish, males usually develop a prominent nuchal hump and extended finnage. |
Feeding | Flake, cichlid pellets and frozen foods Flake, cichlid pellets and frozen foods |
Care
The Frontosa Cichlid is endemic to the northern half of Lake Tanganyika, where it inhabits the deep, rocky habitat, and is most abundant at depths of 30-120m. Here, this species gathers in large aggregations of up to 1000 individuals, feeding on smaller fish and macro-invertebrates. Interestingly, individual size seems to increase with depth, with the largest specimens found in the deepest waters. The eventual adult size and fast-growing nature of these hefty fish necessitates a very spacious aquarium from the outset. A minimum 5-6ft long tank is recommended for growing on a group of juveniles, and these will require much larger quarters (around 8ft x 2ft x 2ft) within a few years if stunting is to be avoided. This is a long-lived fish, with 25 years not unusual under optimal conditions, so it is quite the commitment. Filtration must be powerful, ideally provided by one or more external canisters, and there should be a good level of oxygenation. The best choice of substrate would be coral sand or aragonite, which will help to keep the water hard and alkaline, and, as these fish are deep water dwellers, the aquarium lighting must not be excessively bright. Smooth rocks should be used to create outcrops and plenty of large, shady caves and crevices, ensuring that there is more than one hiding place per fish. However, do also be sure to leave ample open swimming space for these fish to cruise along, and ensure that all structures are stable. Frontosa Cichlids are susceptible to deteriorating water conditions, so frequent partial water changes are absolutely essential, ideally around 25% twice per week. As a gregarious species, Frontosas should always be maintained in good sized groups of 5 or more (7-10 is better) allowing the fish to form a complex social hierarchy with a distinct pecking order. These cichlids are not overly aggressive and can be maintained as part of a Tanganyikan community with fish of similar size and temperament. However, do not mix them with much smaller fish as they will be eaten, and likewise, belligerent species may intimidate them so are best avoided. Interestingly, C. frontosa is restricted to the northern half of the lake, whereas the similar-looking congener, C. gibberosa is allopatrically distributed in the southern half. There are many geographical variants of the Frontosa Cichlid, and these are usually imported under the name of the locale at which they were collected, for example 'Bulu Point', 'Burundi', 'Chaitika', 'Ikola', 'Kapampa', 'Kavala', 'Kipili', and 'Mpimbwe'. There is a particularly sought-after form from Kigoma that displays 7 dark vertical bars instead of the usual 6, and the popular variant known as the 'Blue Zaire' is actually a form of the southern congener, C. gibberosa.
Feeding
Omnivorous, but with a preference for meaty foods. This species requires a balanced diet in order to retain good colours. Slow sinking cichlid pellets/sticks, plus frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped cockle, chopped mussel meat, prawns etc will all be taken with much enthusiasm. Be sure to provide occasional vegetable components to the diet, such as spinach or kale.
Breeding
The Frontosa Cichlid is an ovophilous mouthbrooder, and has been bred in the home aquarium. It should be noted that it takes 3 or 4 years for the fish to become sexually mature - so patience is required. When ready to spawn, the male will display beautiful blue colouration, especially on the head area, but there is no elaborate courtship ritual. He will select a suitable area which he will weakly defend and attempt to entice a female into. This could simply be a moderately secluded area in the tank or a cave/ large flowerpot on its side etc. When he has her attention, they will clean the spawning site together, then he will slowly swim around the area with his fins folded and will release some milt (this is thought to trigger the female into laying her eggs). She then passes slowly over the same area, and after releasing an egg into the milty water , immediately backs up and picks it up. This process is repeated several times, during which the male may or may not release additional milt, until a total of 20-50 large eggs have been taken up into the female's mouth. She will hold the eggs for a lengthy period of 5-7 weeks, and once hatched, the young fry will begin feeding on inhaled particles of food whilst still inside her buccal cavity.
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