Care
The Salt & Pepper Cory is known from the upper Orinoco River basin, where it inhabits the marginal zones of tributary streams and heavily vegetated periodic wetlands.
This is a peaceful little species, ideally suited to smaller softwater aquaria. Due to its diminutive adult size, it is not suitable for the general community aquarium as it may be intimidated by or preyed upon by larger tankmates. A small, mature, densely planted tank would be perfect for this pretty, shoaling catfish. There should be a sandy substrate in order to protect the delicate sensory barbels, and some shady hiding spots amongst driftwood and broad leaved plants. Floating plants can also be useful in helping to diffuse bright lighting. Peat filtration will help to keep the water soft and acidic, and the tannins released will result in the fish showing their best colours. Filtration should be efficient, but water movement very gentle. Salt & Pepper Corys should always be maintained in large sized groups of at least 10 specimens; this will not only give them more confidence, but will result in a more effective, natural-looking shoal. Other tankmates could include tiny sized characins such as Ember Tetras, micro Rasboras (Boraras spp.), or small ornamental shrimps such as Red Crystals or Cherries. Frequent partial water changes are a must, as these fish can be very sensitive to elevated nitrate levels. Corydoras have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. It may do this numerous times per day.
Hoplisoma was recently split from Corydoras and contains many familiar species.
Feeding
Offer a variety of appropriately sized foods, such as small sinking catfish pellets, micro granules, crushed flake, mini-bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, daphnia, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, and baby brineshrimp.
Breeding
This species has been bred in the home aquarium. Mature pairs can be triggered into spawning by performing a large, slightly cooler water change. The pair will adopt the classic T position where the male fertilises the eggs that are held between the female's pelvic fins. The adhesive eggs will then be deposited onto plants, decor, or the sides of the aquarium etc and the process repeated. Unfortunately the eggs of this species are prone to fungus, so some fishkeepers like to add a small amount of methylene blue to the breeding tank. The eggs generally take 3-6 days to hatch (temperature dependent) after which time the tiny fry should be offered finely powdered first foods. A few days later they will be able to take newly hatched brineshrimp.
