Care
The Orange Cory is known from the streams and rivers of the Rio Tuy and Lake Valencia drainages in northern Venezuela.
Although considered by some to be a junior synonym of the Bronze Cory (O. aeneus), the Orange Cory has a somewhat restricted range in two closed drainages and is reported to be the only Corydoras species present in these waters. Exports from this region are few and far between, so most specimens seen in the trade are captive bred and display more orange compared to their wild counterparts. This peaceful species is ideal for the mature subtropical community aquarium, and should be maintained in groups of 5 or more due to shoaling nature. Unfortunately, it can be a little prone to barbel infections/erosion, so it is of paramount importance that the fish are kept on a soft sand substrate (rather than gravel where waste can build up unseen) in order to protect these delicate sensory organs. Filtration should be efficient with areas of moderate water movement and a decent level of oxygenation. Regular maintenance, including frequent partial water changes, should be carried out in order to keep these fish in good condition. Provide plenty of shady areas amongst driftwood, rocks, and areas of dense planting. Tankmates should also be small and peaceful, and enjoy the same cooler conditions that these catfish require long-term. The presence of dither fish in midwater will help to encourage the Corydoras out into view more often. Corydoras have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. It may do this numerous times per day.
Osteogaster was recently split from Corydoras and contains the Bronze cory group.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets, frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae and vitamin-enriched brineshrimp.
Breeding
This species has been bred in the home aquarium. Mature pairs can be triggered into spawning by performing a large, slightly cooler water change. The pair will adopt the classic T position where the male fertilises the eggs that are held between the female's pelvic fins. The adhesive eggs will then be deposited onto plants, decor, or the sides of the aquarium etc and the process repeated. Unfortunately the eggs of this species are prone to fungus, so some fishkeepers like to add a small amount of methylene blue to the breeding tank. The eggs generally take 3-5 days to hatch after which time the tiny fry should be offered finely powdered first foods. A few days later they will be able to take newly hatched brineshrimp.
