Care
This undescribed Cory lives alongside the very similar CW107 in the wild, where their similar colouration helps to protect both species from predators. As with many of these look alikes, they are less closely related than their patterns would suggest.
Like all of its kin, this fish is best kept on a soft sand substrate where it can root around and forage without risk to its barbels which can be damaged by abrasion and bacterial infections from the accumulated waste that often builds up in coarse gravel. Filtration should be efficient with areas of moderate water movement and a decent level of oxygenation. Regular maintenance, including frequent partial water changes, should be carried out in order to keep these fish in good condition. Provide plenty of shady areas amongst driftwood, rocks, and areas of dense planting. As a social species, they should be kept in groups of 5 or more. Other peaceful species such as some of the smaller pencilfish, tetra, and rasboras make ideal tankmates, and their presence as dither fish in midwater will encourage the Corydoras out into view more often.
It's no surprise that this species is easily confused with the less robust and round-nosed Hoplisoma sp. CW107. Luckily most batches are unlikely to contain both species. Recent work on the previously enormous genus Corydoras has moved this species into Brochis, reflecting a close kinship despite some differences such as numbers of dorsal fin rays and a lack of senior synonyms used for the other groups/lineages of former Corydoras species. Further studies will probably result in this fish being placed in a new genus.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets/granules/tablets, flake, and frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp etc. Will also relish livefoods.
Breeding
Some Corydoras can be challenging to breed and are often prompted by cues that are absent in the average set up. Mature pairs may be triggered into spawning by performing a large, slightly cooler water change. The pair will adopt the classic ‘T position’ where the male fertilises the eggs that are held between the female’s pelvic fins. The adhesive eggs will then be deposited onto plants, décor, or the sides of the aquarium etc and the process repeated. The eggs generally take 4-5 days to hatch after which time the tiny fry should be offered finely powdered first foods. A few days later they will be able to take newly hatched brineshrimp. To avoid predation and ensure a higher success rate, many fishkeepers move the parents to another aquarium after the eggs have all been deposited.
